What is a Wheel Bearing?
2025-01-26 20:59 Back in the days of horses and carriages, wheels were attached to the carriage by way of a wooden or metal stick axle that was fixed to the carriage, requiring the wheels to rotate on the axle. A major drawback of this setup was that there was a lot of friction between the wheel and the axle, and that friction made it harder to move the carriage, resulting in wasted energy. The other issue was that the friction would cause a lot of wear and tear on the axle and wheel where they joined, so you'd need to do constant maintenance on the joint. The first caged bearings for axles were patented in the late 1700s, and the design that has carried forward to modern times is basically a set of steel balls or rollers that are housed within a ring-shaped housing called a race. Most ball bearings will have an inner race, which is grooved and holds the balls on the inside, and a grooved outer race on the outer circumference of the bearing. In a roller bearing, the race has slots that allow the rollers to spin against the axle on the inside and the wheel on the outside. In automotive applications, the wheel bearings are usually sealed units that connect the wheel to the suspension of the vehicle. Your wheel studs will typically be part of the bearing and if it is a drive wheel, there can be a hollow in the middle of the bearing where a spindle is inserted from the axle shaft.    
Tips For Replacing Wheel Hub Bearings
2025-01-16 16:30 The first tip is to compare the fitted bearing to the new one before mounting. Selecting the incorrect bearing is the most common mistake made by technicians. Avoid damage to the magnetic encoder Some hub bearings feature a magnetic encoder for the ABS signal, and thus demand even closer attention. The encoder seals contain many north (N) and south (S) poles which are read by the speed sensor (Image 1). If the N+S poles get damaged during installation it can lead to failure of the ABS system. Keep the encoder from magnets and dirt A good tip is to avoid coming into contact or getting near the encoder with tools such as spanners and screwdrivers as they can change the N+S poles, again leading to issues with the ABS signal. With this thought in mind, only remove the bearing from its protective packaging immediately before fitting. Ensure correct encoder orientation Encoders are only present on one side of Hub I generation wheel bearings – as identified by the test card – so it is vital to get the orientation correct when pressing into the knuckle. Before beginning this operation, always check that the encoder surface will be adjacent to the sensor after assembly. Avoid pressure on the encoder surface For pressing, use a tool that only contacts the end face of the outer ring on Hub I generation bearings (Image 3). Never press on the encoder seal and never press on the inner ring as it will lead to bearing failure within a few kilometres of use. Once a suitable tool has be...
How to Test if My Bearing is Bad
2025-01-16 13:41 Some of these symptoms can also be a result of bad tires, or even a bad CV joint, but a bad bearing will sound worse when it is put under load, like when the car is turning, so use this method to test and see if it is your bearing that's causing the noise: Find a deserted stretch of road, on a day with good visibility. Bring the vehicle up to speed. You can do this test at a variety of speeds but stay safe. Once you are at speed, turn to the left and to the right and see if one direction causes the sound to increase or decrease in volume. If the noise increases when you are turning right, the issue is with your left side, since a right turn places more load on the left side of the vehicle. If the noise increases when turning left, the issue is probably on the right. Once you've done the road test and have an idea of where the sound is coming from, park your car, jack it up, and remove the tire. Don't forget to use jack stands! With the tire off, rotate the bearing to see if there is undue resistance or if you can feel or hear clicks, grinding or other sounds coming from the bearing. It should be smooth and quiet. You can also try to wiggle it back and forth and there shouldn't be any play in the bearing.      
Wheel hub bearing grease types
2025-01-16 12:29     There are four common types of grease used in wheel hub bearings: Lithium grease, calcium-based grease, extreme pressure lithium complex grease, Graphite calcium base grease. Lithium grease, which is a kind of grease commonly used in the modern automotive industry. It features the characteristics of long life, water resistance and lubrication. It's an alternative to regular butter. It can be used for most of the lubrication of automobiles. Its service life is twice that of calcium base grease.     Calcium-based grease, developed in the 1930s, also known as butter grease——the most common type applied in the current automotive maintenance industry.   Extreme pressure lithium complex grease, is a kind of grease with higher extreme pressure wear resistance than lithium grease. It should be noted that greases, like lubricants, have grades suitable for different ambient temperatures and service conditions. In general, the grades of grease are named based on its thickness, it becomes more thicker when the grade higher. Grade 2# can be used all year round in the south, and 1# can be used in winter in the north. Grade 3# is only suitable for tropical heavy duty vehicles. Strictly speaking, the condition of grease is also affected and restricted by other factors.       Graphite calcium base grease is usually black because of scale graphite. It has the abilities of water resistance and rolling properties. It is especially suitable for lubrication of automobile re...
Five steps of replacing a wheel hub assembly
2024-12-16 13:36 First, Place the new hub assembly over the piont of the CV axle and toward the knuckle, and then disconnect the ABS sensor (if needed). After that, using a torque wrench to tighten the monunting bolts to the producer’s instructions, and pluging the ABS sensor back in, then reinstall the wheel hub nut without tightening it down. Second, Looking for the brake rotor, remount the brake caliper and use a torque wrench to tighten the bracket fasteners. Third, brake pads----using a C-clamp to make the brake caliper location back slightly in its bore, but ensure brake fluids doesn’t get pushed out of the master cylinder meanwhile. Then, cut the zip tie loose, reimplement the brake caliper and employ the torque wrench to tighten the caliper fasterners. Fourth, implementing the wheel assembly on the lug nuts, using a socket to tighten the lug nuts snugly. Last you need to remove the jack stands safely and lower the vehicle, tighenting up the lug nuts and hub nut by a torque, reinstall the hub cap and cnnect the negative battery cable again. But please keep in mind that all vehicles are very different, our repair instruction does not apply to all vehicles, it’s only for eductional.    
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